Epoxy.
It comes in those cute little jugs and there’s no skull and crossbones sticker to warn you – it doesn’t even smell that bad.
Don’t let it fool you!
Sensitization
Many people have a physical reaction to the chemicals in epoxy systems when over-exposed. The most common reaction is called “dermatitis” which means a skin irritation – like a rash. This can happen with direct contact or it can happen from breathing volatile components of the epoxy that fly off into the air. You know when you smell something – that’s actual stuff going into your nose. If you smell it, it is going in you.
Some people will react immediately to any contact with epoxy and others will have no reaction to getting it all over them day after day for years. It just depends on the person. I once worked in a shop where a new guy showed up and had red spots on his arms and neck by break-time and was sent home at lunch – his body was just not able to be around even a little bit of epoxy. If your body says no, listen.
Even scarier than dermatitis is the full on sensitization that comes after your body is exposed over and over to epoxy. This is when you develop an allergic reaction to the epoxy and can’t handle it anymore. Sometimes this reaction is a poison ivy-like rash, and worse case, it can cause respiratory inflammation. If this happens to you, kiss your epoxy-using days goodbye!
If you’re even a little concerned about epoxy-related reactions, do some research and consult a doctor. This is not to be taken lightly. I have had a scare with epoxy sensitization that had me quit using it for months and look into allergies and other sensitivities. It turned out to be a food-related sensitivity but it was eye-opening and scary.
So the first rule of using epoxy: Don’t get it on you!
That’s it. No excuses, wear the gloves! If you are doing a big job with prolonged exposure, please wear a respirator too.
What to Do
Now, some more detail about what types of protective gear can help…
Gloves and Suits
First, wear gloves. That’s a minimum – even for small batches. Because you will get it on you. Nitrile gloves are tougher than latex and do not have the added risk of latex allergy – which is a real problem for many people. Thin cheap nitrile gloves tear easily though – sometimes its a good idea to double-up the gloves or spring for the heavier duty gloves that come further up your arm. My personal preference is for thicker powdered latex gloves and find they last ok and fail more gracefully. I change my gloves a lot and it’s nice to have them strip off without tearing. Latex is less solvent resistant and will break down more easily though. If you are using a strong solvent like acetone – or a mold cleaner or sealant – thicker nitrile gloves are a must.
If there is a chance of getting the resin on you beyond where your gloves cover, then wear a protective set of sleeves, apron or a full suit. Standard Tyvek suits will soak up resin and it will quickly work its way through and touch your skin. There are more expensive (and less breathable) protective suits that work well for heavy exposure. People often cover standard-duty suits with packing tape or duct tape in certain places to make them more fully epoxy-proof. This helps.
Ventilation or Respirator – or Both!
Next, make sure you are working in a well ventilated area. If this isn’t possible or you are doing a larger job, then use a respirator with organic vapor cartridges. These have an activated charcoal filter that will remove the nasty vapors. Make sure to change the cartridges as recommended by the manufacturer and keep them in a sealed bag or box when not in use. If fogging is an issue because of glasses then a full-face respirator can be really nice. For very heavy-duty work or all-day-every-day professional use there are full-face powered air respirator systems that work very well – but are quite expensive.
And safety glasses… or just regular glasses if you’re like me and can’t see nothin’. Something to keep any accidental splashes out of your eyes!
Dust
Epoxy cures slowly compared to polyester and vinyl ester resins and can often remain in a partially-cured state (B-staged) for hours or even days – sometimes until it is post-cured. This semi-cured epoxy is often called “green” – and it can be dangerous too. Green epoxy still has reactive chemicals in it – the same ones that can be irritants and sensitizers in the wet form. Handling or breathing this dust can be just as bad as handling wet epoxy – and because it isn’t gooey and gross it feels way less dangerous!
While working with recently-cured epoxy (or un-postcured resin systems that remain green for a while) it is important to wear good dust protection gear. Wear a respirator with both dust and organic vapor filters and a suit that will keep the dust off your skin. Make sure to wash yourself and your clothes well when done.
What if you get it on you?
Don’t wipe it off with acetone. This will remove some of it but will make the rest much easier for your body to absorb – which is exactly what to avoid. Use a less volatile solvent or better yet a water-less skin cleaner or wipe. The less solvent the better! Vinegar will supposedly work but I have never had much luck with it. Check out this article from Epoxyworks: Vinegar: Save it for Salads. My favorite product for removing epoxy is the bucket of Kresto Special Wipes (formerly ‘Tough Towels’) – they work great for cleaning tools too without the hassle and mess of acetone.
Cleanup Products:
Barrier Creams
There are creams that can be applied to the skin that create a chemical resistance coating that acts like a backup set of gloves. Of course you need the gloves too – but these barrier creams can be a good addition to your safety plan when working with epoxies. The work by blocking the pores in your skin and creating a film layer that resists the intrusion of other chemicals – like the epoxy. It’s not 100% – but it can be a good choice if you are concerned about broken gloves or exposed forearms.
Products:
- pr88 Skin Protection Cream
- Stokoderm® Protect PURE (formerly DEB SBS 46)
- Gloves In A Bottle